Bike aesthetic/mechanical/electrical modifications and general wrenching advice.
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danham
- Supercharged!

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- Location: Cape Cod, MA USA
- Bike(s): 2018 SE
- x 194
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Post
by danham » Tue Mar 05, 2019 12:17 am
Burmashave wrote: Mon Mar 04, 2019 11:09 pm
I've looked at the LE module. I don't want to have to rely on my phone for audio alerts. I'll use the V1 audio module and a BT hookup. ..
My biggest prob will be to get the motivation to tackle the entire job after the weather warms enough to spend time in the garage.
I had pretty poor luck with the V1 audio modules. I say modules, plural, because they kept breaking on me. For some reason they seem to be susceptible to vibration and the one that didn't die that way ended up with a very intermittent connection due to the audio jack spring tension going soft after only a few months of use on the bike. I hope you fare better.
I think I saw a post here about using an SR-10 connected to the V1 via the audio remote. Was that you? That's what I did and the setup worked fine (when the V1 audio boxes weren't broken), but the noise gate on the SR-10 opens a little slower than the V1 reacts, so you lose the first beep or two. Not a biggie. I do prefer the LE because the more wires and connections there are, the more chance for problems.
I hear you about motivation. I need to go see the Kawi dealer while mine is still strong.
-dan
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2018 H2 SX SE
Sprint P08 filter
Skene P3 rear LEDs
Skene Photon Blaster front LEDs
Woodcraft frame sliders
Nelson Rigg tail bag
DID 525ZVM-X2 chain
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Burmashave
- Supercharged!

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- Bike(s): H2 SX SE
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- x 11
Post
by Burmashave » Tue Mar 05, 2019 12:36 am
danham wrote: Tue Mar 05, 2019 12:17 am
Burmashave wrote: Mon Mar 04, 2019 11:09 pm
I've looked at the LE module. I don't want to have to rely on my phone for audio alerts. I'll use the V1 audio module and a BT hookup. ..
My biggest prob will be to get the motivation to tackle the entire job after the weather warms enough to spend time in the garage.
I had pretty poor luck with the V1 audio modules. I say modules, plural, because they kept breaking on me. For some reason they seem to be susceptible to vibration and the one that didn't die that way ended up with a very intermittent connection due to the audio jack spring tension going soft after only a few months of use on the bike. I hope you fare better.
I think I saw a post here about using an SR-10 connected to the V1 via the audio remote. Was that you? That's what I did and the setup worked fine (when the V1 audio boxes weren't broken), but the noise gate on the SR-10 opens a little slower than the V1 reacts, so you lose the first beep or two. Not a biggie. I do prefer the LE because the more wires and connections there are, the more chance for problems.
I hear you about motivation. I need to go see the Kawi dealer while mine is still strong.
-dan
That's good to know about possibly flakey audio units, especially with regard to vibration. I'm getting ready to purchase the V1 and modules for the bike, so I'm going to have a rethink on the LE module.
Someone else posted about connecting the V1 to a Sena. I seem to recall that he used a TaoTronics BT transmitter. For the headset, I'm thinking about a slim Sena unit, or more likely, something like these BT noise blocking earplugs:
https://tinyurl.com/y264ldkf
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AndrewD
- New Member

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- Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2018 1:57 am
- Location: Sydney
- Bike(s): H2 SX SE
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by AndrewD » Tue Apr 30, 2019 8:21 am
keith zx wrote: Mon Mar 04, 2019 3:24 pm
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/GPS-Mounts/C ... ycle+mount
This is the stem mount I fit on my bike ,I bought it from a motorcycle shop paid £32 for it , so a lot cheaper on amazon , fits in a minute , I decided to wire my garmin straight to the battery with a 5 amp fused connector in the 12 volt line, simply removed the right hand side cover below the tank and seat , easy to remove , one push plastic rivet underneath abck of riders seat the rest just allen bolts fed the wire from the battery along the top of the frame and zip tied it in place , you cannot see any wires when you put back the plastic apart from a piece of slack wire going to the garmin mount .
Hi Keith zx or anyone else,
I have just installed the RAM fork stem mount but find it moves around too much with the zumo 595 gps on. This is despite tightening it (and also destroying 1 mount from over tightening). I am looking at the mount you linked to above. Just checking that the size is correct (20.5-24.5 mm)?
I won't have my bike for a few weeks to check the diameter of the fork stem myself. Does anyone know the diameter of he fork stem?
Thanks in advance!
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keith zx
- Accelerating

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- Location: south shields uk
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- x 1
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by keith zx » Tue Apr 30, 2019 6:56 pm
that is the mount I used , I take it you tried the rubber stem mount , I tried one on my zzr it was never secure . the mount I am using now is rock steady,
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AndrewD
- New Member

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- Location: Sydney
- Bike(s): H2 SX SE
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by AndrewD » Tue Apr 30, 2019 8:44 pm
Thanks Keith. Yes I tried the rubber mount. Although it's solid in terms of it won't pull out, the mount does spin (probably just the plastic cap and not the whole mount)
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Racer-X
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by Racer-X » Tue Apr 30, 2019 9:01 pm
I was looking at this over the weekend and have come to the conclusion that the best spot to hook into the wiring is the Joint Connector (9) indicated on the wiring diagram. If you follow the wires around you will find that this junction box leads to a switched power source from fusebox-1. According to the manual this fuse box is located in the nose on the left side ... the junction box is not detailed but I assume its in the same spot.
I think this would be an ideal power source for a GPS but I haven't pulled the fairings off yet to see if my theory holds

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