Adding adjistable lowering links and kick stand.

[cOoTeR]

I decided to add some adjustable lowering links so I can set the bike up a little better for when I take it to the drag strip. An adjustable kick stand is needed when lowering the bike, because the stock stand will cause the bike to tip over if the bike is lowered enough. I'd assume the center stand might work on a lowered bike but may be harder to get the bike on the center stand. I took my center stand off when the recall came out but I still have the mounting brackets.

There are plenty of instructions online about how to install them and its pretty straight forward so I won't get too detailed.

I used soupys lowering links, they appear to have the most adjustability. I don't know if the further range if adjustability will be useable or not yet. Lowering the bike enough can cause the rear tire to rub the undertail.

To install the links the "dog bones" must be removed. Most instructions call for supporting the bike from under the engine with a jack. I used a friend to hold the bike and tip it onto the kick stand. Once the 2 bolts are loosened you can have your friend pull the bike onto the kickstand and there is a sweet spot just before the rear tire comes off of the ground and the bolts will slide out easily. IMPORTANT INFO SPECIFIC TO THE H2 SX SE. Here is where the first problem comes in. The mounting plate for the center stand on the right side of the bike gets in the way of removing the upper bolt. So before you start you should remove the bolts holding the mounting plate and swing it forward in a counter clockwise direction. I had to loosen the lower fairing bolt to get enough room to slide the bracket forward. You can't get the bracket completely out of the way but you can get the bolt out. There is a collar inside the mount where the bolt goes through. If you push the collar out slightly towards the left side of the bike you will get enough room to pull the bolt out. On the lowering links one of the bolt holes was tighter and it was a little tricky to get the bolt through. I had to tap it in to get it through but it went and rotates inside the link. Having the friend tip the bike again helps getting the bolts back through. Then all that's left to do is tighten the linkage bolts down.

I'll type up the kick stand install later.

[cOoTeR]

The kick stand was fairly straight forward aswell. First I removed the the spring by inserting coins between the gaps in the spring with the kick stand in the down position. Then when I put the stand in the up position the spring came off without me needing to stretch it. Then I removed the cotter/ split pin and washer from the backside of the nut. Then I removed the bolt holding the kickstand on the bike. Then I did everything in reverse to bolt it all back on making sure the kick stand position sensor was lined up properly. I also used blue locktite that came with the stand on the bolts.

One thing I don't like about the kickstand is that the lower pin that holds the spring is really short. On the stock strand it's long enough to use to push the kick stand up or down. Now I have to use the foot of the kick stand to move it up or down and its kind of awkward because you have to start behind the foot peg.

[KiwiKodi]

Yeah that centre stand issue was a pain. Then I stupidly put it back together the same way instead of reversing the bolts. I didn’t like it lower as I found the cat bottomed out when entering the driveway. So as a result I have a set of lowering links (Lustracing) if anyone wants a set (for a small donation plus cost of postage).

[Prof J]

Yeah that centre stand issue was a pain. Then I stupidly put it back together the same way instead of reversing the bolts. I didn’t like it lower as I found the cat bottomed out when entering the driveway. So as a result I have a set of lowering links (Lustracing) if anyone wants a set (for a small donation plus cost of postage).

KiwiKodi, how much did you lower yor bike that the cat was bottoming out?

[Prof J]

I decided to add some adjustable lowering links

cOoTeR, After the install, when you do the 'adjusting', lengthening/shortening of the link, what I've heard is that a little adjustment makes for a larger change.

Here is what I was sent about the static links I ordered:

"The std link on the bike is 183mm hole center to hole center. The 1" 1/2 inch **** ****** lowering link has 196 mm hole centers. (supplied) The difference in link length is very small and (about 1/2"inch, slightly less than the bolt head). Installed they will however lower the bike by 1" 1/2 inch. The change in link length is much smaller than the actual change in ride height, this is because of the suspension linkage ratio. And the fact that the links are much closer than the rear axle to the swing-arm pivot. Thus a small change in link length will make a much large change in ride height. The lowering links should be LONGER than the std links.?"

Cooter, did you notice, also, that a small change of the adjustable link you used, had a bit larger change in bike height?

Also, based upon how your link effected the bikes height, what would you say is a 'range' of lowering that would be possible/reasonable for street use with the links you have?

[Prof J]

Yeah that centre stand issue was a pain. Then I stupidly put it back together the same way instead of reversing the bolts. I didn’t like it lower as I found the cat bottomed out when entering the driveway. So as a result I have a set of lowering links (Lustracing) if anyone wants a set (for a small donation plus cost of postage).

KiwiKodi, how much did you lower yor bike that the cat was bottoming out?

I'm thinking the Lust Racing set, if it is the same as the one I bought, is 1 1/2" lowering, static, non-adjustable.

[cOoTeR]

I decided to add some adjustable lowering links

cOoTeR, After the install, when you do the 'adjusting', lengthening/shortening of the link, what I've heard is that a little adjustment makes for a larger change.

Here is what I was sent about the static links I ordered:

"The std link on the bike is 183mm hole center to hole center. The 1" 1/2 inch **** ****** lowering link has 196 mm hole centers. (supplied) The difference in link length is very small and (about 1/2"inch, slightly less than the bolt head). Installed they will however lower the bike by 1" 1/2 inch. The change in link length is much smaller than the actual change in ride height, this is because of the suspension linkage ratio. And the fact that the links are much closer than the rear axle to the swing-arm pivot. Thus a small change in link length will make a much large change in ride height. The lowering links should be LONGER than the std links.?"

Cooter, did you notice, also, that a small change of the adjustable link you used, had a bit larger change in bike height?

Also, based upon how your link effected the bikes height, what would you say is a 'range' of lowering that would be possible/reasonable for street use with the links you have?

I don't know what the ratio is of link adjustment to height adjustment but it definetly lowers more than you adjust it. I got the lowering links for use at the dragstrip for better 60ft times. I also strap the front. I have no idea how low it can go I never measured it. It can go lower than what I lower it to at the track and I put it pretty low at least 3 inches. But I actually raise the rear higher once I'm done at the track to make the bike a little more nimble.

As far as how far the links will lower the bike for street use. They will lower it further than I think would be practical since there isn't much room to lower the front.

[Prof J]

I decided to add some adjustable lowering links

cOoTeR, After the install, when you do the 'adjusting', lengthening/shortening of the link, what I've heard is that a little adjustment makes for a larger change.

Here is what I was sent about the static links I ordered:

"The std link on the bike is 183mm hole center to hole center. The 1" 1/2 inch **** ****** lowering link has 196 mm hole centers. (supplied) The difference in link length is very small and (about 1/2"inch, slightly less than the bolt head). Installed they will however lower the bike by 1" 1/2 inch. The change in link length is much smaller than the actual change in ride height, this is because of the suspension linkage ratio. And the fact that the links are much closer than the rear axle to the swing-arm pivot. Thus a small change in link length will make a much large change in ride height. The lowering links should be LONGER than the std links.?"

Cooter, did you notice, also, that a small change of the adjustable link you used, had a bit larger change in bike height?

Also, based upon how your link effected the bikes height, what would you say is a 'range' of lowering that would be possible/reasonable for street use with the links you have?

I don't know what the ratio is of link adjustment to height adjustment but it definetly lowers more than you adjust it. I got the lowering links for use at the dragstrip for better 60ft times. I also strap the front. I have no idea how low it can go I never measured it. It can go lower than what I lower it to at the track and I put it pretty low at least 3 inches. But I actually raise the rear higher once I'm done at the track to make the bike a little more nimble.

As far as how far the links will lower the bike for street use. They will lower it further than I think would be practical since there isn't much room to lower the front.

Thank you. I hope to get the lowering cone Wednesday. Also hoping for the first lowered 'fitting' version of my seat to be ready.

[Prof J]

Yeah that centre stand issue was a pain. Then I stupidly put it back together the same way instead of reversing the bolts. I didn’t like it lower as I found the cat bottomed out when entering the driveway. So as a result I have a set of lowering links (Lustracing) if anyone wants a set (for a small donation plus cost of postage).

KiwiKodi,

If the CAT were not there, what'd you think about the lowering?

[Prof J]

cOoTeR, Soupy's links do not seem to be specifically for the H2SX. Which ones did you use?