Obligatory Oil Thread

[stk0308]

I run Kawasaki Performance Full Synthetic 10w-40

I went this route too. It's supposed to be a modern motor. It shouldn't need thousands of miles of "break in" on dino.

Though, I was tempted to use Motul, as I hear that's who is making Kawi's oil products for them. Just never found confirmation which verison of Motul is equivalent.

[THOR]

i used Motul 7100 fully synthetic 10w40.

[JonTheChron]

First oil change Kawasaki M4 10w40 1500kms
Second oil change Kawasaki S4-R 15w50 (the green stuff) 5400kms
Third oil change Motul 300V 10W40 11900 kms
Fourth oil change Motul 300V 10w40 18900 kms
Fifth oil change will probably also be Motul 300V

Why did you change your oil at 6000 km instead of 12000 like the manuel says ?

I had planned to change from mineral to full synthetic around that time for better engine protection.

As for the other oil changes using 300V, Motul recommends oil changes every 4800-8000kms so I kinda went inbetween.
Always go with the lowest manufacture recommendations..

[JonTheChron]

i used Motul 7100 fully synthetic 10w40.

How do you like the 7100?

[KompreSXor]

Silkolene 10w40 Fully synth after 600 service. advised by my dealer.

[THOR]

i used Motul 7100 fully synthetic 10w40.

How do you like the 7100?

not bad at all, the price was very good, and the bike feels good, the gear changes are good, so far so good I used to use motul on my yamaha mt10 sp before but i was using 300V. That one is very expensive and short life.

[Rymek]

10W40 300V Full synth

Used it on all of my bikes never failed me.

[motoman]

WELLLLLLLL!

Just participating in my umpty-teenth oil thread is giving me chills!!

I use several indicators to decide which oil I like in each bike I have owned:

1. How well does it shift? Is it smooth?
2. How noisy is the engine? Does it seem to run quieter and smoother with certain oil?
3. How is the heat control? Does the temp gauge seem to run hotter in the same conditions?
4. How quickly does the bike start? Some oils tend to 'stick' the engine parts like the cam, rings, etc. and the bike starts on the first 'kick' after sitting for months. Other oils seem to require the engine to turn over a few times before it kicks on. I am assuming this is the oil coming up from the crankcase to seal everything. This is where the most wear occurs.
5. And last, is the bike using any oil? This might be happening at break in, but otherwise I'm going elsewhere.

Recently, thinner oils have been recommended in modern motors by many engineers because they come up fast and coat moving parts quickly at startup. They're also able to reduce metal-to-metal contact better. I am currently running Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 full Syn. Seems pretty good, not recommending it to anyone! May be a little thin, may shear early, but I change often. I may move to T5 15w-40 Syn Blend. These are Diesel oils, so they may have other characteristics not found elsewhere.

The H2 SX motor seems to have larger clearances than say a CBR1000RR. Just my opinion. Anyway, my point is I think every bike seems to like a different oil, so I just try to figure out what that might be... The Oil Whisperer!

[cOoTeR]

WELLLLLLLL!

Just participating in my umpty-teenth oil thread is giving me chills!!

I use several indicators to decide which oil I like in each bike I have owned:

1. How well does it shift? Is it smooth?
2. How noisy is the engine? Does it seem to run quieter and smoother with certain oil?
3. How is the heat control? Does the temp gauge seem to run hotter in the same conditions?
4. How quickly does the bike start? Some oils tend to 'stick' the engine parts like the cam, rings, etc. and the bike starts on the first 'kick' after sitting for months. Other oils seem to require the engine to turn over a few times before it kicks on. I am assuming this is the oil coming up from the crankcase to seal everything. This is where the most wear occurs.
5. And last, is the bike using any oil? This might be happening at break in, but otherwise I'm going elsewhere.

Recently, thinner oils have been recommended in modern motors by many engineers because they come up fast and coat moving parts quickly at startup. They're also able to reduce metal-to-metal contact better. I am currently running Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 full Syn. Seems pretty good, not recommending it to anyone! May be a little thin, may shear early, but I change often. I may move to T5 15w-40 Syn Blend. These are Diesel oils, so they may have other characteristics not found elsewhere.

The H2 SX motor seems to have larger clearances than say a CBR1000RR. Just my opinion. Anyway, my point is I think every bike seems to like a different oil, so I just try to figure out what that might be... The Oil Whisperer!

I will never understand why people put oil developed for diesel engines in motorcycles. Like there is some conspiracy that an oil company would have a better product for a vehicle but market it for a completely different vehicle. Doesn't seem smart to use oil for an engine that redlines around 6k rpms in an engine that redlines around 13k rpms.

[Zdude]

I have used Mobile 1 synthetic motorcycle oil since it became available. I have used it in all my bikes from a turbo-charged 2000 ZX12r, 1270 forged turbo pistons and nitrous injected (325 hp)run extremely hard in Tennessee summers (hot and humid) for 3 years and over 15,000 miles without issue - changed every 2 to 3000 miles. Other bikes I have used it in issue free, 2009 Ducati Streetfighter, 2013 ZX14R, 2008 CBR1000RR plus using the "V-twin" version of it in several Buells and a V-Rod. Easy to find and until it is proven unreliable I don't plan to use anything else.