What kind of break in are you going to do with your H2 SX when you get it?

[vcyclenut]

Option 1, whatever the manual says. Generally that's don't exceed a certain rpm for so many miles and vary the throttle. It probably takes longer for the engine to bed in that way, but it will eventually and I think it will run just as strong maybe stronger. I also use exactly the recommended oil.

even only averaging 3000 rpm for 10 minutes gives 30,000 rotations of the motor

any kind of micro polishing or bedding in is done very quickly

I am not telling you do change your method its your very expensive brand new shiny bike, do what you see fit

[Lentz]

I just figure Kawasaki knows something I don't.

[kman0066]

I've always been of the mind that the owner's manual break-in period was more aimed at getting the rider used to the bike than anything about actually breaking in the motor. But it would be interesting to hear from actual engineers.

[Lentz]

Why don't we talk about the best oil next. hahahahahaha THAT'S always good for an argument too.

[vcyclenut]

I just figure Kawasaki knows something I don't.

And I figure they have different motives then the bike making best power


Motul full synthetic from day one

[Lentz]

Can you tell we're all bored waiting for the bike to come in? I just got my new Connie wired up for GPS and radar detector. That was a b**ch. but it gave me something to do. I'm on to the cruise control next.

[Kilo_Rider]

Most likely #2

[ghostwriter78]

How to break in

1. warm um properly for 5min at idle so all engine components have enough time to warm up to correct operating temperature
2. ride without pillion/panniers,
3. no lugging, so no steep mountain roads, no dragging on idle in gear, no heavy engine breaking
4. go through most of the rev range ramping up/down smoothly, no pinning/flooring/gunning, vary the RPMs, but again, NO lugging
5. at begin of break in period dont exceed 10k rpm for long, near end of 1000km you can go over it
6. after ca 1h stop the bike and let it cool down completely.
7. repeat the process

bonus: if you can change oil after 250 or 500km as most micro wear occurs in this period it would be ideal. then again at 1000 to remove oil and potential residue, i recommend here flushing engine / sump with new oil (250cc) after removing used oil.

most of the other way like babying it or 'ride like it was stolen' were proven as not the best ways. nowadays engines dont need the previously critical brake in as they are run beforehand and quality of manufacturing is much more advanced than 5 or 10y ago. running on a almost fixed RPM or lugging or excessive heat or long high rpm gunning has negative side effects.

personally i complete this process in ca 5 days

[Pyrocritic]

Ride it like I stole it.

[ghostwriter78]

quick update from manual:
- 0-800km at max 4000rpm
- 800-1600km at max 6000prm
- oil change at 1000km

the biggest issue isnt the engine break-in but the supercharger break-in. its not recommended to rev over 8000rpm before break in at all.