Opinions of the horns below? Which one? *sigh* So many choices! Leaning toward the Stebel with it's 139db rating...
PIAA Slim Line: https://www.amazon.com/85114-400Hz-500H ... B004FXMGLY
Stebel Mini Air horn: https://www.amazon.com/Stebel-11690019- ... B00CMX20H4
Denali Soundbomb: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/den ... t-air-horn
HELLA Supertone: https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-Protective ... B000CRZXPI
Aaron
Denali Sound Bomb
-
Burmashave
- Supercharged!
- Posts: 542
- Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2018 8:59 pm
- Location: USA
- Bike(s): H2 SX SE
- x 16
- x 11
Re: Denali Sound Bomb
I got my Sound Bomb mounted. Here's a few thoughts for anyone who's interested:
- I got the separate horn and compressor unit.
- I mounted the horn where KiwiKodi mounted his. (Thanks for the pic, Kiwi!). In order to do that, I cut the mounting bracket part off the horn and secured it to the fairing with 3M Dual Lock tape after making sure the mounting position would allow the brake cables to swing without obstruction. The Dual Lock tape holds the horn securely but allows easy removal when the fairing needs to be pulled. I think this was worth the effort because I was thinking that mounting the horn in an air gap in the side fairing would obstruct air flow on a bike that needs all the cooling it can get.
- I mounted the compressor in the empty space to the right of the battery. In order to do this, I cut the mounting bracket off the compressor, wrapped it in thin rubber sheeting to prevent scratching and vibration, and mounted it to the frame with zip ties. Also, because the plastic top of the compressor was loose after cutting the bracket, I epoxied it to the compressor.
- I wired the horn trigger by splicing into the hot wire (black and yellow wire) at the OEM horn. I was thinking that I'd use both horns together (more sound = better), but as someone else pointed out, you get a weird sound this way because the OEM horn kicks in a split second before the air horn. So, I disconnected the OEM horn. In retrospect, I wouldn't have spliced that connection. Instead, I would have just crimped a male spade terminal and connected it to the female power connector at the horn unit.
- I used a Rowe Amplink for power and switching, which let me skip installing a relay. Interestingly, I think the Sound Bomb is rated for 20 Amps, but the Amplink tripped repeatedly when I tried it out. The max per circuit on the Amplink is 20 Amps, so the workaround is to wire it to to 2 (of 6 total) power outlets and set the max for each to 13 Amps. This worked fine.
- The Amplink is a great piece of kit -- very easily customizable via bluetooth and their app. You can see from the photo that it's also powering the direct wiring for my V1 radar detector and my heated gear outlet.
- I got the separate horn and compressor unit.
- I mounted the horn where KiwiKodi mounted his. (Thanks for the pic, Kiwi!). In order to do that, I cut the mounting bracket part off the horn and secured it to the fairing with 3M Dual Lock tape after making sure the mounting position would allow the brake cables to swing without obstruction. The Dual Lock tape holds the horn securely but allows easy removal when the fairing needs to be pulled. I think this was worth the effort because I was thinking that mounting the horn in an air gap in the side fairing would obstruct air flow on a bike that needs all the cooling it can get.
- I mounted the compressor in the empty space to the right of the battery. In order to do this, I cut the mounting bracket off the compressor, wrapped it in thin rubber sheeting to prevent scratching and vibration, and mounted it to the frame with zip ties. Also, because the plastic top of the compressor was loose after cutting the bracket, I epoxied it to the compressor.
- I used a Rowe Amplink for power and switching, which let me skip installing a relay. Interestingly, I think the Sound Bomb is rated for 20 Amps, but the Amplink tripped repeatedly when I tried it out. The max per circuit on the Amplink is 20 Amps, so the workaround is to wire it to to 2 (of 6 total) power outlets and set the max for each to 13 Amps. This worked fine.
- The Amplink is a great piece of kit -- very easily customizable via bluetooth and their app. You can see from the photo that it's also powering the direct wiring for my V1 radar detector and my heated gear outlet.
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