Quick shifter?

[vcyclenut]

my auto bip down shifts are not smooth when I set the ebc control on light but are when I have the ebc off

my bike also idles high with the ebc set to light

if you have the ebc set to light, turn it back off and see if it is better

[Champ87]

my auto bip down shifts are not smooth when I set the ebc control on light but are when I have the ebc off

Sounds as if the EBC and KQS are fighting each other. I'm guessing that EBC is holding the throttles open slightly to reduce engine braking then KQS jumps in with an auto-blip to throw the whole thing into confusion.

[cOoTeR]

(Trying to explain) I tend to down shift a little more aggressively with a higher rev/blip than the KQS does - especially as you have to completely throttle off for it to work. What I said originally is that I get a double blip, mine plus the bikes. I need some dry(er) weather before getting out again and trying to figure out what I am doing differently. It’s as if the clutch switch doesn’t work and the KQS still works with clutch applied.

Why aren't you taking advantage of the quick shifter and using it the way it was intended?

If the bike is blipping with the clutch pulled in there is a problem with the system or your holding the throttle open and not realizing it.

[KiwiKodi]

Because this is my first QS downshift I have owned in 35 years riding experience. I own 8 bikes, I track 2 Gixrs and have another 2 with QS up only. I habitually high rev my down shifts with a mix of slipper and non slip clutches. I’m guessing that somewhere in my ‘habitual’ downshifts I am still applying pressure on the stick and dropping the revs which engages the KQS when I don’t want it to. Like I keep saying I Need to work out what I do differently. Guess I wasn’t looking for advice as I consider myself a descent rider. Was more sharing my experience which it seems some others are experiencing too. I know a couple of BM riders ie RS 1200 who turn off the down which in my opinion (at this early stage) is a missing feature. More to come over the weekend.

BTW Cooter I do appreciate your comments!

[MadeInJapan]

OK i checked at manual, indeed it says it needs closed throttle.. who had the smart idea that for downshifting you have to close throttle.. in this case i dont need KQS at all,... makes no sense what so ever honestly. Sometimes i have to downshift to get into lower gear AND actually accelerate within power band.
For upshifting you never needed KQS and for downshifting you cant use it properly since you have to close throttle completely. lol

Exactly. My preference would be to be able to turn off downshift and upshift independently. I like QS up but down sucks.

So just use the KQS going up, and blip it going down.
Anytime you use the clutch when KQS is active, that's your turn off switch.

The bike blips the throttle for you when you use the quick shifter. There is no reason to use the clutch or have the throttle open.

I use the KQS up and down although it does seem little harsh going into gears at times, but the guy was saying he likes to use it going up but not down. So I was just saying use the clutch to disengage the KQS when downshifting. I only use the clutch when I want to make the chirping sound audible xD

[KiwiKodi]

Ok, so time to stir the experts opinion pot. Put 200 miles on today and really tried to focus on what I was doing that made it double blip. Any pressure on the clutch stops the QS from working - check. However, with the clutch pulled in about 20%, it doesn’t change down but every time I tap the gear lever down, the revs blip. So it ‘seemed’ that with clutch engaged, she still blips when down shifting.

I got pretty used to just downshifting with the QS as it’s meant, but on a couple of occasions I manually downshifted and again, I got a double blip, mine first, bikes second.

[Barrel]

Ok, so time to stir the experts opinion pot. Put 200 miles on today and really tried to focus on what I was doing that made it double blip. Any pressure on the clutch stops the QS from working - check. However, with the clutch pulled in about 20%, it doesn’t change down but every time I tap the gear lever down, the revs blip. So it ‘seemed’ that with clutch engaged, she still blips when down shifting.

I got pretty used to just downshifting with the QS as it’s meant, but on a couple of occasions I manually downshifted and again, I got a double blip, mine first, bikes second.

Check to see if this happens (double blip) more on downhills. I notice it more then. Possibly because the IMU senses a pitching forward when there isnt really one and (via KIBS?) it confuses the ECU. Just a thought.

[Champ87]

Any pressure on the clutch stops the QS from working - check. However, with the clutch pulled in about 20%, it doesn’t change down but every time I tap the gear lever down, the revs blip. So it ‘seemed’ that with clutch engaged, she still blips when down shifting.

The same thing happened to me yesterday. 45 years of riding makes it hard for me to break the habit of using the clutch (up or down). I was trying to get used to downshifting without clutch or blipping the throttle. One time (and only once) there were some extra blips in there when I downshifted with clutch while KQS was engaged.

I already made plenty of down changes using the clutch without any autoblips so what was different this time? The only thing that I could think of was maybe I still had some pressure on the lever - not enough to change gear but maybe enough to trigger the switch. Right now I'm not familiar enough with the various components to know if that's a viable explanation. What I can say is that KiwiKodi is not going mad. KQS might make him mad but the bonus blips are a real thing.

[KiwiKodi]

Ok, so time to stir the experts opinion pot. Put 200 miles on today and really tried to focus on what I was doing that made it double blip. Any pressure on the clutch stops the QS from working - check. However, with the clutch pulled in about 20%, it doesn’t change down but every time I tap the gear lever down, the revs blip. So it ‘seemed’ that with clutch engaged, she still blips when down shifting.

I got pretty used to just downshifting with the QS as it’s meant, but on a couple of occasions I manually downshifted and again, I got a double blip, mine first, bikes second.

Check to see if this happens (double blip) more on downhills. I notice it more then. Possibly because the IMU senses a pitching forward when there isnt really one and (via KIBS?) it confuses the ECU. Just a thought.

Good idea - come to think of it, I recall it happening on an incline - was going through a 40 village and there was a slow sweeping incline, was in 4th changing to 3rd and needed to keep momentum and revs (as opposed to throttle off and QS down), so clutch and blipped and second blip happened. Seemed that as I was pulling (accelerating) and not slowing the blip didn’t surge forward, was just audible.

And thanks Champ87 for restoring my sanity

[cOoTeR]

Ok, so time to stir the experts opinion pot. Put 200 miles on today and really tried to focus on what I was doing that made it double blip. Any pressure on the clutch stops the QS from working - check. However, with the clutch pulled in about 20%, it doesn’t change down but every time I tap the gear lever down, the revs blip. So it ‘seemed’ that with clutch engaged, she still blips when down shifting.

I got pretty used to just downshifting with the QS as it’s meant, but on a couple of occasions I manually downshifted and again, I got a double blip, mine first, bikes second.

Check to see if this happens (double blip) more on downhills. I notice it more then. Possibly because the IMU senses a pitching forward when there isnt really one and (via KIBS?) it confuses the ECU. Just a thought.

Good idea - come to think of it, I recall it happening on an incline - was going through a 40 village and there was a slow sweeping incline, was in 4th changing to 3rd and needed to keep momentum and revs (as opposed to throttle off and QS down), so clutch and blipped and second blip happened. Seemed that as I was pulling (accelerating) and not slowing the blip didn’t surge forward, was just audible.

And thanks Champ87 for restoring my sanity

The "needed to keep momentum and revs (as opposed to throttle off and qs down.." does not make sense to me. Do you not close the throttle when you pull the clutch in before blipping it? Having the clutch pulled in is not sending power to the rear wheel so the whole time you have the clutch pulled in you're losing drivetrain speed which will translate to lower revs once the clutch is released.

The revs are going to be determined by the gear your in and the speed the rear tire is moving when you release the clutch. No amount of throttle blipping will keep the revs higher once the clutch is released because the engine speed will match the drivetrain speed on its own. The engine and drivetrain are physically connected and have to go the same speed relative to the gearing that's connecting them. So you can run the revs to redline on the throttle blip and they will drop back down to match the drivetrain speed once the clutch is released. The point of a throttle blip is to match the engine speed to drivetrain speed so the bike stays settled. Not to keep the revs up. To keep the revs up you shift faster or go down more gears.

The whole time the clutch is pulled in you're losing revs and momentum. That's why downward quick shifters were invented, to down shift faster with less wasted time. Closing the throttle and pushing the shifter down is faster and smoother with the auto blip than trying to pull in clutch, push shifter, twist throttle, close throttle release the clutch. If you are faster using the clutch you are either delusional or could be making millions of dollars racing motorcycles or training racers because your better at downshifting than all the top motorcycle racers in the world because they all use an auto blipping downshifter.

The reason yours is not working is your using your system wrong. You're pulling the clutch lever in partially and the qs is not picking up that the clutch is being used. The system is designed to deactivate when the clutch is used all the way. So your options are turn off the qs and live without it, try to adjust the clutch lever or switch so the system deactivates at the point you are pulling the clutch or change your riding style to use the QS properly.

You can't go down gears without slowing down while doing it. That's where the downward QS comes in to minimize the time it takes to down shift resulting in less speed lost.

The throttle movement on a blip is 1. Close the throttle 2. Open the throttle to bring rpms up 3. Close the throttle for a smooth clutch release 4. Open the throttle to accelerate.
The throttle movement on using the QS for a downshift 1. Close the throttle 2. Open the throttle to accelerate. That's 2 less steps, it's going to be significantly faster which will keep the revs higher because the bike will slow less.