For news and general chat about the Kawasaki H2 SX.
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cOoTeR
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by cOoTeR » Mon Apr 09, 2018 1:49 pm
ghostwriter78 wrote: Mon Apr 09, 2018 10:55 am
Closing the throttle to downshift makes no sense.. you have to increase rpm when downshifting, that means opening throttle a bit when using clutch.
True, using clutch with KQS doesnt do anything other than what clutch does by itself..
Main reason for using KQS is that i dont have to do anything when i press shift lever up / down as KQS turns off ignition for a ms.
- I sure enabled KQS, it shows on dash.
- Im in reasonable RPM range, not under 5k and not over 9k.
- The bike has a slipper clutch, so difference on downshift should be compensated.
- i might be on up/downhill while shifting and when downshifting may be also breaking slightly at same time
- there is no grinding of gears

its clearly and cleanly shifting, but on 2nd/3rd its rocking the bike
If you are using the QS to down shift you have to have the throttle closed or it does not work and it's the same as just pressing down on the shift lever of a regular bike without using the clutch. If the throttle is open AT ALL the QS won't engage.
When the QS is used in down shifts it automatically matches the rpms for you. That's how it works. If you have the clutch lever pulled or the throttle opened at all the QS does not activate or work.
What are you doing with the throttle during your 2-3 upshifts? Are you full throttle? Are you closing it? Are you holding it steady?
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Stock with airfilter 164whp 84ft.lbs
De-restricted + tuned 213whp 97ft.lbs
Full vandemon exhaust with tune 221whp 99ft.lbs
On Race Fuel 233whp 103ft.lbs
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KiwiKodi
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by KiwiKodi » Mon Apr 09, 2018 2:57 pm
I’m going to have to focus more at the weekend to see what I’m doing different. There is definitely a second surging blip if I manually downshift with KQS active. Not sure if it’s mine or the bikes. Maybe - dare I say it, a dodgy clutch switch? Or a dodgy rider!!!
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ghostwriter78
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by ghostwriter78 » Wed Apr 11, 2018 1:16 pm
OK i checked at manual, indeed it says it needs closed throttle.. who had the smart idea that for downshifting you have to close throttle.. in this case i dont need KQS at all,... makes no sense what so ever honestly. Sometimes i have to downshift to get into lower gear AND actually accelerate within power band.
For upshifting you never needed KQS

and for downshifting you cant use it properly since you have to close throttle completely. lol
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Current: H2 SX SE 2018, FZ6 2010, CB1
Sold: R6 2008, 2x CBR650F ('14/'17), CBR500R, CBR250R
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KiwiKodi
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by KiwiKodi » Wed Apr 11, 2018 9:45 pm
ghostwriter78 wrote: Wed Apr 11, 2018 1:16 pm
OK i checked at manual, indeed it says it needs closed throttle.. who had the smart idea that for downshifting you have to close throttle.. in this case i dont need KQS at all,... makes no sense what so ever honestly. Sometimes i have to downshift to get into lower gear AND actually accelerate within power band.
For upshifting you never needed KQS

and for downshifting you cant use it properly since you have to close throttle completely. lol
Exactly. My preference would be to be able to turn off downshift and upshift independently. I like QS up but down sucks.
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cOoTeR
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by cOoTeR » Thu Apr 12, 2018 2:32 am
ghostwriter78 wrote: Wed Apr 11, 2018 1:16 pm
OK i checked at manual, indeed it says it needs closed throttle.. who had the smart idea that for downshifting you have to close throttle.. in this case i dont need KQS at all,... makes no sense what so ever honestly. Sometimes i have to downshift to get into lower gear AND actually accelerate within power band.
For upshifting you never needed KQS

and for downshifting you cant use it properly since you have to close throttle completely. lol
This makes no sense. What rpm are you down shifting at that you're not in the powerband when you need to be? If that's the case kick it down 2 or more gears. Do you normally downshift and hold the throttle open while doing so. I think you don't understand what it's intended purpose is for.
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Stock with airfilter 164whp 84ft.lbs
De-restricted + tuned 213whp 97ft.lbs
Full vandemon exhaust with tune 221whp 99ft.lbs
On Race Fuel 233whp 103ft.lbs
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MadeInJapan
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by MadeInJapan » Thu Apr 12, 2018 12:40 pm
KiwiKodi wrote: Wed Apr 11, 2018 9:45 pm
ghostwriter78 wrote: Wed Apr 11, 2018 1:16 pm
OK i checked at manual, indeed it says it needs closed throttle.. who had the smart idea that for downshifting you have to close throttle.. in this case i dont need KQS at all,... makes no sense what so ever honestly. Sometimes i have to downshift to get into lower gear AND actually accelerate within power band.
For upshifting you never needed KQS

and for downshifting you cant use it properly since you have to close throttle completely. lol
Exactly. My preference would be to be able to turn off downshift and upshift independently. I like QS up but down sucks.
So just use the KQS going up, and blip it going down.
Anytime you use the clutch when KQS is active, that's your turn off switch.
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cOoTeR
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by cOoTeR » Thu Apr 12, 2018 4:31 pm
MadeInJapan wrote: Thu Apr 12, 2018 12:40 pm
KiwiKodi wrote: Wed Apr 11, 2018 9:45 pm
ghostwriter78 wrote: Wed Apr 11, 2018 1:16 pm
OK i checked at manual, indeed it says it needs closed throttle.. who had the smart idea that for downshifting you have to close throttle.. in this case i dont need KQS at all,... makes no sense what so ever honestly. Sometimes i have to downshift to get into lower gear AND actually accelerate within power band.
For upshifting you never needed KQS

and for downshifting you cant use it properly since you have to close throttle completely. lol
Exactly. My preference would be to be able to turn off downshift and upshift independently. I like QS up but down sucks.
So just use the KQS going up, and blip it going down.
Anytime you use the clutch when KQS is active, that's your turn off switch.
The bike blips the throttle for you when you use the quick shifter. There is no reason to use the clutch or have the throttle open.
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Stock with airfilter 164whp 84ft.lbs
De-restricted + tuned 213whp 97ft.lbs
Full vandemon exhaust with tune 221whp 99ft.lbs
On Race Fuel 233whp 103ft.lbs
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KiwiKodi
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by KiwiKodi » Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:13 pm
(Trying to explain) I tend to down shift a little more aggressively with a higher rev/blip than the KQS does - especially as you have to completely throttle off for it to work. What I said originally is that I get a double blip, mine plus the bikes. I need some dry(er) weather before getting out again and trying to figure out what I am doing differently. It’s as if the clutch switch doesn’t work and the KQS still works with clutch applied.
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Barrel
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by Barrel » Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:25 pm
KiwiKodi wrote: Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:13 pm
(Trying to explain) I tend to down shift a little more aggressively with a higher rev/blip than the KQS does - especially as you have to completely throttle off for it to work. What I said originally is that I get a double blip, mine plus the bikes. I need some dry(er) weather before getting out again and trying to figure out what I am doing differently. It’s as if the clutch switch doesn’t work and the KQS still works with clutch applied.
Totally agree. There are times when the bike adds a blip just after I've finished the gear change (only on downshifts). Like the ECU has suddenly realised "Oooh, a quickshift I need to add some revs ... damn did it too late again". Result is a small jerk forward just after the change is completed. Only some gears / sometimes. More often when downhill.
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KiwiKodi
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by KiwiKodi » Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:28 pm
Barrel wrote: Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:25 pm
KiwiKodi wrote: Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:13 pm
(Trying to explain) I tend to down shift a little more aggressively with a higher rev/blip than the KQS does - especially as you have to completely throttle off for it to work. What I said originally is that I get a double blip, mine plus the bikes. I need some dry(er) weather before getting out again and trying to figure out what I am doing differently. It’s as if the clutch switch doesn’t work and the KQS still works with clutch applied.
Totally agree. There are times when the bike adds a blip just after I've finished the gear change (only on downshifts). Like the ECU has suddenly realised "Oooh, a quickshift I need to add some revs ... damn did it too late again". Result is a small jerk forward just after the change is completed. Only some gears / sometimes. More often when downhill.
That’s it!!!!!!!! So glad it’s not just me. More than likely something I can get used to and work at changing what I do on this particular bike. Just need some more miles in so I know what it is......thank you for restoring my sanity.
Last edited by
KiwiKodi on Thu Apr 12, 2018 9:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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