For folks running a flash ...

[Prof J]

2018 SX SE

First owner. OEM break-in procedure followed closely.

Reflash done at 11800 mi.
I am now at 21000 mi.

I typically ride the bike medium-hard, with occasional drag-racing nights where I do pull on average 20-25 1/4 mile runs in 3-4 hours.

JonTheChron, thank you for the detailed outline of you bikes HX.

I'd appreciate the same, as I may be breaking in a new engine next season.

Burmashave, what are you looking for?

[Burmashave]

Burmashave, what are you looking for?

Perhaps a clue ;-)

I quoted the wrong post. I've fixed it.

[FJR919]

Happy to share, but remember break in methods are almost like oil threads, everyone has a different opinion. In a motorcycle engine, you have competing optimal break in procedures for piston and rings vs. transmission and clutch so every procedure is a compromise. To start with, a thermal cycle is a start up to operating temperature and then a return to ambient temperature. Cutting open the oil filter is to examine debris left by the break in process and the amount of ferrous material trapped by the magnetic pull of the Filtermag and compare it to the amount I've seen in other motorcycles during the break in procedure.

This is how my H2 was broken in:

1) First 55 miles- lots of accel/decel. Most shifts at 5000 rpm a few shifts to 6000 rpm with nothing more than half throttle. You don't want to introduce too much heat to the piston and top ring too early.

2) Next ride rode 71 miles, lots of accel/decel many runs to 7000 rpm, a few shifts at 8000 rpm and after 104 miles 1 run to 8500 rpm, and 1 run to 9000 rpm. These were done with 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Now 126 miles and this is the second thermal cycle.

3) Next ride rode 121 miles- lots of accel/decel. Many runs to 7000 rpm and 8000 rpm at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. 2 shifts to 8500 rpm and 10 runs to 9000 rpm. Now 247 miles and this is the third thermal cycle.

4) Next ride rode 73 miles and basically a repeat of the above. Now 320 miles and this is the fourth thermal cycle. Oil and filter changed at this point and note still no full throttle.

5) Next ride rode 86 miles similar to last ride, rpm peak to 9500 rpm. Now 406 miles and the fifth thermal cycle.

6) Rode 105 miles, lots of accel/decel, shifts at 6K, 7K, 8K, 4 shifts at 9000 rpm, and 3 shifts at 9500rpm. Still no full throttle. Niow 511 miles and this is the sixth thermal cycle.

7) After this point I started a few full throttle shifts with increasing rpm each time. I have the detailed notes, but I'm sure this is getting tedious for those reading it. By 1014 miles it was the eleventh thermal cycle and felt that was enough. Another oil and filter change was done at this point.

I do not beilieve in the Motoman break in. It may be fine for a race engine which will be torn apart more often than a street engine, but I feel it is too risky (I know an R1 engine failed catastrophically during such a break in) but believe an aggressive but not abusive break in was the way to go. Many engine builders believe that the piston rings seat within the first 100 miles and if the bike is ridden too gently they will never achieve their optimum seal.

[Prof J]

Happy to share, but remember break in methods are almost like oil threads, everyone has a different opinion. In a motorcycle engine, you have competing optimal break in procedures for piston and rings vs. transmission and clutch so every procedure is a compromise. To start with, a thermal cycle is a start up to operating temperature and then a return to ambient temperature. Cutting open the oil filter is to examine debris left by the break in process and the amount of ferrous material trapped by the magnetic pull of the Filtermag and compare it to the amount I've seen in other motorcycles during the break in procedure.

This is how my H2 was broken in:

1) First 55 miles- lots of accel/decel. Most shifts at 5000 rpm a few shifts to 6000 rpm with nothing more than half throttle. You don't want to introduce too much heat to the piston and top ring too early.

2) Next ride rode 71 miles, lots of accel/decel many runs to 7000 rpm, a few shifts at 8000 rpm and after 104 miles 1 run to 8500 rpm, and 1 run to 9000 rpm. These were done with 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Now 126 miles and this is the second thermal cycle.

3) Next ride rode 121 miles- lots of accel/decel. Many runs to 7000 rpm and 8000 rpm at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. 2 shifts to 8500 rpm and 10 runs to 9000 rpm. Now 247 miles and this is the third thermal cycle.

4) Next ride rode 73 miles and basically a repeat of the above. Now 320 miles and this is the fourth thermal cycle. Oil and filter changed at this point and note still no full throttle.

5) Next ride rode 86 miles similar to last ride, rpm peak to 9500 rpm. Now 406 miles and the fifth thermal cycle.

6) Rode 105 miles, lots of accel/decel, shifts at 6K, 7K, 8K, 4 shifts at 9000 rpm, and 3 shifts at 9500rpm. Still no full throttle. Niow 511 miles and this is the sixth thermal cycle.

7) After this point I started a few full throttle shifts with increasing rpm each time. I have the detailed notes, but I'm sure this is getting tedious for those reading it. By 1014 miles it was the eleventh thermal cycle and felt that was enough. Another oil and filter change was done at this point.

I do not beilieve in the Motoman break in. It may be fine for a race engine which will be torn apart more often than a street engine, but I feel it is too risky (I know an R1 engine failed catastrophically during such a break in) but believe an aggressive but not abusive break in was the way to go. Many engine builders believe that the piston rings seat within the first 100 miles and if the bike is ridden too gently they will never achieve their optimum seal.

Interesting process, thank you for the write up.

[Burmashave]

Happy to share, but remember...

Interesting process, thank you for the write up.

+1

[vcyclenut]

with increased rpm after every thermal cycle and of course constant rpm variation.

cut open my oil filters after the first two oil changes. Just my two cents on the topic.

JR919, interesting info. Would you detail "every thermal cycle" (ea 100 mile ride?)

and "cut open my oil filters "

Thank you.

a thermal cycle is the bike coming up to full temp and then cooling off all the way, this is one cycle and has nothing to do with how many miles.

if you jumped on the bike and rode it 1000 miles with it never cooling off this is one heat cycle

I also am I big believer in heat cycles not mileage break in. MY guess is that the mileage comes from the manufacturer figuring an average number of miles per heat cycle and came up with 500 and 1000 miles as it is safe to say you will have several heat cycles in this many miles.

I also believe in seating the rings EARLY on. I do short quick blasts up the 3/4 redline and let it engine brake down, with a couple higher gear big throttle 5-6 second pulls mixed in. Ill do this on the first ride from the dealer to home


I also ride the bike home from the dealer and change the oil and filter so this is within the first 50 miles

I have always had strong bikes like this, have never had one that used oi or had a premature failure

[Prof J]

a thermal cycle is the bike coming up to full temp and then cooling off all the way, this is one cycle and has nothing to do with how many miles.

if you jumped on the bike and rode it 1000 miles with it never cooling off this is one heat cycle

I also am I big believer in heat cycles not mileage break in. MY guess is that the mileage comes from the manufacturer figuring an average number of miles per heat cycle and came up with 500 and 1000 miles as it is safe to say you will have several heat cycles in this many miles.

I also believe in seating the rings EARLY on. I do short quick blasts up the 3/4 redline and let it engine brake down, with a couple higher gear big throttle 5-6 second pulls mixed in. Ill do this on the first ride from the dealer to home


I also ride the bike home from the dealer and change the oil and filter so this is within the first 50 miles

I have always had strong bikes like this, have never had one that used oi or had a premature failure

David,

Thank you. These ideas of thermal cycles here at this forum are the first time I've run across the idea. Seems to make good sense. Thank you for the additional info.

[Burmashave]

I have 2 questions for guys who are cutting open their filters:

1) How often are you changing the oil and cutting open a filter, both during break in and afterwards?

B) If you detect any metal in the oil or filter, what do you do next?

[FJR919]

I have 2 questions for guys who are cutting open their filters:

1) How often are you changing the oil and cutting open a filter, both during break in and afterwards?

B) If you detect any metal in the oil or filter, what do you do next?

I usually do the first two, maybe three oil changes and then at some point in the future. Oil and filter changes at 300, 1000, and then at 2000 miles full synthetic and then the oil change is once a year before winter storage and since I have a number of motorcycles it usually is no more than 3000 miles. I also have a Filtermag which will always reveal some level of magnetically trapped metal. There will be some small metallic debris in the filter in those first couple of changes as the parts polish in to each other and whatever leftover junk is in the sump from the manufacturing process. I also like to see the quality of the filter, and all the Japanese brands appear to be well made. Some aftermarket filters look like crap on the inside, and I stick with OEM filters for my motorcycles.

[Burmashave]

I have 2 questions for guys who are cutting open their filters:

1) How often are you changing the oil and cutting open a filter, both during break in and afterwards?

B) If you detect any metal in the oil or filter, what do you do next?

I usually do the first two, maybe three oil changes and then at some point in the future. Oil and filter changes at 300, 1000, and then at 2000 miles full synthetic and then the oil change is once a year before winter storage and since I have a number of motorcycles it usually is no more than 3000 miles. I also have a Filtermag which will always reveal some level of magnetically trapped metal. There will be some small metallic debris in the filter in those first couple of changes as the parts polish in to each other and whatever leftover junk is in the sump from the manufacturing process. I also like to see the quality of the filter, and all the Japanese brands appear to be well made. Some aftermarket filters look like crap on the inside, and I stick with OEM filters for my motorcycles.

Thanks, FJ.