The kit contains ZX10 header (with spacers to fit H2 SX), a new mid-pipe and a Lextek silencer with removable dB killer (that I won’t be removing). I also selected the optional exhaust bracket to use with hard bags.
Installing Exhaust
To remove the exhaust, the radiator must be removed which, in turn, requires removal of the side fairings. The oxygen sensor and butterfly valve are disconnected. The butterfly valve actuator can be left in place but removing it will provide a small weight saving and some additional storage space under the seat.
Some random notes:
- I don’t think it’s necessary to remove the battery, but it might give a little more room to disconnect the oxygen sensor lead and butterfly valve actuator cables. I was removing it anyway.
- When removing the radiator there are some plastic guide clamps holding the camshaft position sensor lead to the radiator cover. Two of them are tucked away by the cooling fans so, when removing the radiator, make sure to support it while you release those fiddly clips – and again when refitting.
- To remove the original exhaust pipe, put the bike on the sidestand or a race stand. If the center stand is down it will interfere with removal. The Center Stand also needs to be up for installation to check there is clearance between the mid-pipe and the stand.
- Before tightening up the various clamps and bolts, the parts need to be positioned to be clear of the hard bags while making sure that the center stand does not hit the mid-pipe in the up position
- if using Vcyclenut’s optional bracket for use with hard bags, you’ll need an extra mounting bolt. Be sure to have a pretty M8 x 30mm bolt available (or an ugly one if you really don’t care).
I also installed optional block-off plates (purchased separately from Vcyclenut) to disable the secondary air system to reduce heat in the exhaust. Even if the system is disabled in the ECU settings, there is still the possibility of drawing air into the exhaust causing possible backfiring that can be more prominent with an aftermarket exhaust system.
Installing the block-off plates requires removal of the fuel tank to give access to the air suction valves - Kawasaki’s name for the secondary air system. Bryan468 posted up some information about tank removal that I found very helpful. Thanks Bryan.
More random notes:
- For US and CA models equipped with an Evaporative Emission Control System, the EVAP Canister must be removed to provide access to the air switching valve and air suction valve covers, all of which are removed.
- The purge valves need to be moved to allow removal of the air suction valve covers and fitting the new block-off plates. The purge valves do not have to be completely removed, simply unbolt them from the holding brackets and move them aside with electrical connectors and hoses still attached
- It’s not necessary to remove the radiator to install block-off plates. However, I already removed the fairings and radiator to install the exhaust. The extra working room this provided was useful.
Before riding the bike, the ECU should be updated with fuel and ignition mapping for the new exhaust setup.
As part of the update you, or your tuner, should disable the O2 sensor, exhaust butterfly valve to prevent error codes and a Check Engine Light. If block-off plates are installed, the secondary air system should also be disabled.
After flashing the ECU, initial data for accelerator position and throttle position need to be established. To register the throttle body data in the ECU run the engine for 10 seconds at idle speed and coolant temperature 40°C (104°F) or more.
This wasn’t intended to be a “how-to” post. If anyone wants detailed step-by-step information, let me know and I’ll cook up a Champ87 guide with lots of photos.
