Connect 12V power cable

[Clintr79]

I just installed the oem power outlet on my Sx. I did not remove the front fairing just loosened it up and move it a little didn’t disconnect all the plugs or anything. Didn’t have much issue just removed the windshield and was able to get it done

[keith zx]

i have my garmin wired directly to the battery , the garmin does not take much power , although it has an inline fuse on it , never had any issues ,I always remove my garmin out of the bracket when not in use , thinking about it the sat navs are running off there own internal battery , the 12 volt feed will just keep it topped up so I cant see any issues ??

[pikines]

I just installed the oem power outlet on my Sx. I did not remove the front fairing just loosened it up and move it a little didn’t disconnect all the plugs or anything. Didn’t have much issue just removed the windshield and was able to get it done

Do you have any photo or video?
Thanks!

[Clintr79]

Sorry no I do not

[Champ87]

I think the best option, and maybe easiest, is to connect at the Accessory Relay….

Recently, while I had the tank off my H2 SX SE for another project, I took the opportunity to add additional accessory wiring. As mentioned in my earlier post, I thought the best way to do that is to connect to the output from the existing accessory relay to provide a switched supply protected by the existing accessory circuit fuse.

To make the connections I simply released two of the existing terminals from the relay connector. I cut off the terminals from the switched supply (white/black wire) and ground (black/yellow wire) and crimped new terminals to include both new and existing wires. After clicking the new terminals back into the connector housing I added some protective sleeve and a 2-way connector. I routed the extended wiring to the fairing area so I can connect without lifting the tank.

The new wiring will be used to power my radar detector. I also plan to add another accessory socket on the side of the bike near the seat lock. I’ll wire that one direct to the battery as an unswitched supply with its own fuse. That will be used primarily as a plug-in point for my battery tender but could also be used for heavier current draw or as a charging point for my phone.

Accessory relay is located below the front fuel tank bracket

I added new red wire for switched supply and new black wire for ground

Wiring was finished off with some protective sleeve and a 2-way connector

[Burmashave]

Nice write up, Champ! It really bugs me that manufacturers don't provide a convenient ignition switched power signal source.

I sourced my switched power by splicing into the brake light. I would have been more comfortable with splicing into the license plate light, but the brake light shares the circuit with the license plate light anyway, and I was installing a Vizi Light module, so I spliced into the Vizi Light harness before plugging it in.

By the bye, I really like the Rowe Amplink module, but I don't think it deserves its own writeup. It's huge convenience and customizable for powering multiple accessories. The only downside, as with any wiring, is that with so many triggers and outlets, creating neat and secure wiring routing takes some time and effort.

[Champ87]

By the bye, I really like the Rowe Amplink module, but I don't think it deserves its own writeup. It's huge convenience and customizable for powering multiple accessories. The only downside, as with any wiring, is that with so many triggers and outlets, creating neat and secure wiring routing takes some time and effort.

Have you used the Amplink module? The configuration options make it a good choice for anyone with multiple accessories. I'm very familiar with the previous version; I used two Rowe PDM60 modules to completely replace the OEM fuse blocks on my Triumph Sprint. As I made more and more wiring mods, I reached point where I decided to do a complete wiring overhaul and incorporate all my mods and a few further improvements into one complete integrated design with solid-state control. To handle the original circuits plus all my additions, I needed two Rowe PDM60 modules. At one point, it looked like an explosion in a spaghetti factory with about half the wiring harness hanging off my bike but, when it was all done, it was very neat. Using the the switching triggers feature allowed me to eliminate some relays too - the number of those had grown with each mod.

To me, pulling a switched feed off the existing accessory relay seemed like a quick, neat and technically sound solution for what I need on my H2 SX SE. However, if at some point I need to be adding more circuits an Amplink module will be on my shopping list.

Sometmes you reach a point in a project where you ask "why did I start this?"

Then, it all comes together - original fuseblock replaced by PDM modules

[Burmashave]

Have you used the Amplink module?

Yup, I recently installed one on my SX SE. I've never used the PDM60, but I did download the software to see what options are available. I have made compact a fuse/relay block for a previous bike.

The Amplink is way better than the PDM60: 3 triggers, 20 Amp limit on all outlets, plus, configuring via BT is so much more convenient than plugging into USB. Where my Amplink is mounted, it'd be a royal pain to pull it to plug in the USB cable. Additionally, unlike the PDM60, you can configure each circuit for custom delay and triggers. If you're on the road, and you have a prob with a circuit, it's an easy deal to connect to the module to troubleshoot or disable an individual circuit.

I obsess about wiring. Everything gets soldered, shrink wrapped with double wall (waterproof) shrinkwrap, and all exposed wires get cabled and routed neatly. The Amplink module is in the upper right of the pic, partially obscured by the Valentine 1 power supply.