Murph's bar riser design update #3

[prettybirdSE]

I just ordered these.Lookin good!Youtube video as well for install.Very nice.Thanks Murph's,and all who made this happen;)Since I frequently use the bar clamp/switchgear as a handrest when on CC,this addition seems like it will allow me to rest my palms on the upper mount area,away from the switchgear which seems to me a better safer place to be holding onto.It looks factory for sure.Great job guys!

I also have Bryan's risers on there.So hopefully the Murph's kit(moving of the brake block)will allow both items to be used.They're 1/2".This should give a nice rise to it.This deal should allow me to sit a bit more upright for cruising,which will be good.
Totally pumped about this mod...

[UFO]

I also have Bryan's risers on there.So hopefully the Murph's kit(moving of the brake block)will allow both items to be used.They're 1/2".This should give a nice rise to it.This deal should allow me to sit a bit more upright for cruising,which will be good.
Totally pumped about this mod...

I have both Murphs and the 1/2" spacers. They work fine together and create a very neutral riding position as far as pressure on the wrists/hands goes.

[SidneyCarton]

I also use both the 1/2 in. Spacers and the Murph’s risers. They do work well together. An added benefit is that they lift me higher, and out of turbulence at the top of my helmet. Now just quieter clean air. After multiple motorcycle types over the years, I find the H2 SX SE’s forward leaning riding position with low windscreen to be the quietest for me. I can hear Pink Floyd even at 80 mph...

[esenior]

I don't want to speak for Murph but news should be very soon. I just did an installation video for him. Stay tuned...

Just watched the video. I don't have my risers yet, but it was very helpful. Thanks!

[esenior]

Just ordered my risers. Looking forward to taking some strain off of my wrists and my old back. Thanks Murph!
I also plan to run them with Bryan's 1/2" risers. Decided to go this route as it will let me keep my Ohlins steering damper.

[FJR919]

I don't want to speak for Murph but news should be very soon. I just did an installation video for him. Stay tuned...

Just watched the video. I don't have my risers yet, but it was very helpful. Thanks!

Glad you liked it. It was my first instructional YouTube video.

[Champ87]

I just did an installation video for him. Stay tuned...

Good video. I might buy a set of rises just so can enjoy installing them.

I don't know if others realize how much work goes into putting something like that together. Good work.

[FJR919]

I just did an installation video for him. Stay tuned...

Good video. I might buy a set of rises just so can enjoy installing them.

I don't know if others realize how much work goes into putting something like that together. Good work.

Thank you, but it wouldn't look like that if my talented wife hadn't done the camera work, captions, and clean editing. She also photoshopped out all my garage clutter around my H2 for the still photos on Murphs' website.

[prettybirdSE]

IF I want to have more rearward bar position,I'm thinkin maybe that pin could be removed.I can't see a safety issue with doing that.Long as the bolt for the factory attachment is safely secured.Which it should be with the torque and locktite on there.I mean,that riser can only move so far back until it contacts the factory mount.So it's certainly not gonna drop down any further.We'll see.Looks like one could gain another 1/2" or so of rear placement.And not really lose much height.

Plus with Bryan's risers,I'm still gaining 1/2" from that.

[prettybirdSE]

Got my kit yesterday.Installed last night.I added them on with Bryan's risers.The problem I've had was that the left side contacts the screen and fairing quite a bit when full turn to the right.The switchgear.I removed the factory pin hoping I could simply turn the switchgear for clearance.No go.The reservoir doesn't hit,the hose lightly brushes against the inner fairing there.THe switchgear contacts the screen at the outermost area and causes the screen to ride up and onto the housing.It was tweaking the fairing pretty significantly.

The right side seemed pretty much okay.

If I could get the switch housing to turn forward some,it could clear.I think.This was at full right turn.There's a solid silver colored area on that housing that appears to be contacting the factory riser.Maybe it's a piece of the master under there?.I don't want to start grinding stuff.I won't.I DID however need to remove Bryan's risers and reinstall the murphs.This gave it a bit more clearance,but still not enough at full right.The sceen edge still wants to ride up over the housing.Only at full right.I removed a slight bit of windscreen right in that area.It's okay now.I have another screen coming from zero gravity,a touing screen.I'll see if that will clear.Maybe.

I really wanted to use Bryan's and Murphs on there.

So did anyone else work out how to stop the housing from hitting at full right?(left housing)Or have this issue going on?I moved the lever attachment and rolled that so the lever and such was more 'down'(lower angle).It only moved about 1/2 inch.Not enough to make any real difference.

I guess not turning it full right could solve it.But sometimes you hit full right unconsciously when manuvering.I didn't want to crack the fairing at the bolt where the screen attaches .Looked like it might be possible for it to do that,at the bolt hole.
Any input would be good...Thank You guys!

I loosened the switch screws and tried to turn that housing.It aint gonna move.

The alignment looks just like that picture right above.Everthing is how it should be.Like the rest of us...I don't want something not fully functional.

How'd you guys using Bryan's(and Murph's) get clearance full turn right to left?