Anyone else foul out spark plugs?

[Icancin2u2]

Have you tried rotating the rear eccentric? If you rotate it around where the axle it at the top of the swing, that would drop the rear a bit. Free lowering. We had a number of people do that with Triumph's single sider.

stk0308,

The shock is what you are talking about? No I have not. I'll take a look at it tomorrow.

" rotate it around where the axle it at the top of the swing", meaning the shock is compressed?

Thank you for the idea.

No, the axle adjustment eccentric.

I'm not familiar with it. I'm going to research the where and how to do that, and try it out.

Thanks for the suggestion. That may save me some $ on the lowering links. ?

But, you'll significantly change your chain length, thereby change your wheelbase, which changes riding characteristics. At least with lowering links it won't change so many parameters at once!

[stk0308]

stk0308,

The shock is what you are talking about? No I have not. I'll take a look at it tomorrow.

" rotate it around where the axle it at the top of the swing", meaning the shock is compressed?

Thank you for the idea.

No, the axle adjustment eccentric.

I'm not familiar with it. I'm going to research the where and how to do that, and try it out.

Thanks for the suggestion. That may save me some $ on the lowering links. ?

But, you'll significantly change your chain length, thereby change your wheelbase, which changes riding characteristics. At least with lowering links it won't change so many parameters at once!

No, the chain length won't be changed. Only where the axle rides in the carrier, in the vertical plane. The chain will be the same length, either way, when the tension is set correctly. It WILL effect handling by dropping the rear, which will rake out the front more. Lowering links will do this as well. Which is why it's a good practice to raise the front forks up in the triples to match how much you loose in the back. With the way the handlebars mount on the H2 SX, I'm not sure there's much room to do this, though.

[cOoTeR]

I think the eccentric lowering method was found to not work on our bikes in another thread so I think it's a moot point.

[Prof J]

Bryan468 ,

I hope to get onto my bike next week, after the seat is redone and the lowering, if I need to do that. I'll check the plugs every few hundred miles and see how they look.

Your post is a good 'look for' notification.

[cOoTeR]

I have just over 1200 miles on the bike and I went to start it today and it started and idled lower than normal... roughly 1k rpms and it just stayed there. I figured it would come out of it and be fine but it didn’t. I also noticed that the afr was at about 10.0!

I tried revving it up and holding it up in the rpms but it started running on 3 cylinders and when I let off it died. Tried it a couple times and got the same result. I disconnected the battery and tried it again a few times and same result.

I’m at about a half tank of fuel and I haven’t filled it recently so I know that’s not the problem. I decided to pull the plugs and it appears they’re in pretty tough shape! I’ve done a handful of pulls with it lately so I’m surprised at how black they are.

I know the owners manual calls for a NGK SILMAR9E9 but I’m curious if anyone has tried a different plug yet?

Is this a common problem with this bike?

Do you have any oil stuck in the air filter housing? I hate how close the crank case vent is to the supercharger. It seems to pull oil into the airfilter housing. After a few hundred miles the little tube on the bottom of my air filter housing fills up with oil and crap but the little bottle down low hasn't ever gotten to a 1/4 full.

But if you're getting a lot of oil sucked into the engine that might be part of the fouled plugs.

[Bryan468]

I have just over 1200 miles on the bike and I went to start it today and it started and idled lower than normal... roughly 1k rpms and it just stayed there. I figured it would come out of it and be fine but it didn’t. I also noticed that the afr was at about 10.0!

I tried revving it up and holding it up in the rpms but it started running on 3 cylinders and when I let off it died. Tried it a couple times and got the same result. I disconnected the battery and tried it again a few times and same result.

I’m at about a half tank of fuel and I haven’t filled it recently so I know that’s not the problem. I decided to pull the plugs and it appears they’re in pretty tough shape! I’ve done a handful of pulls with it lately so I’m surprised at how black they are.

I know the owners manual calls for a NGK SILMAR9E9 but I’m curious if anyone has tried a different plug yet?

Is this a common problem with this bike?

Do you have any oil stuck in the air filter housing? I hate how close the crank case vent is to the supercharger. It seems to pull oil into the airfilter housing. After a few hundred miles the little tube on the bottom of my air filter housing fills up with oil and crap but the little bottle down low hasn't ever gotten to a 1/4 full.

But if you're getting a lot of oil sucked into the engine that might be part of the fouled plugs.

I didn’t even think of that.... I’ll check it out.

[Prof J]

No, the chain length won't be changed. Only where the axle rides in the carrier, in the vertical plane. The chain will be the same length, either way, when the tension is set correctly. It WILL effect handling by dropping the rear, which will rake out the front more. Lowering links will do this as well. Which is why it's a good practice to raise the front forks up in the triples to match how much you loose in the back. With the way the handlebars mount on the H2 SX, I'm not sure there's much room to do this, though.

I read your post earlier and went out and looked. I wonder how much they can be raised, without interference, too.

[Prof J]

Do you have any oil stuck in the air filter housing? I hate how close the crank case vent is to the supercharger. It seems to pull oil into the airfilter housing. After a few hundred miles the little tube on the bottom of my air filter housing fills up with oil and crap but the little bottle down low hasn't ever gotten to a 1/4 full.

But if you're getting a lot of oil sucked into the engine that might be part of the fouled plugs.

cOoTeR

You know, now that you mention it, I had a similar issue on my turbo'ed 14. I took the crank case vent hose, replaced it with a little longer hose, and vented it to a catch can near the bottom the bike. I ran a little higher oil level to make sure there was sufficient oil for the added turbo needs. I blocked off the return hose stub going back. It was messy enough that I caught it during my trial test runs, so right after getting the turbo on. Plugs were ok, but I'm thinking you have an excellent possible culprit.

[PhukDD]

I talked to a friend who is a professional tuner about this plug issue. His comment was that no 2 bikes run exactly the same. He has put the same flash on bikes of the same model and year and one ran fine the other rich. His comment was that it is a good idea to check the AFR when you get a bench flash.

[Prof J]

I talked to a friend who is a professional tuner about this plug issue. His comment was that no 2 bikes run exactly the same. He has put the same flash on bikes of the same model and year and one ran fine the other rich. His comment was that it is a good idea to check the AFR when you get a bench flash.

PhukDD,

" His comment was that it is a good idea to check the AFR when you get a bench flash."

Exactly. Generated maps on a dyno, which they can be 'generic' in nature, may map out differently when thrown on a bike with different conditions, altitude, humidity, temp, tuners preferences.

I agree with your tuner, as do other on-bike dyno tuners I've used at various tuning facilities. If you'er looking for the sweeter 'spot' on tune, get it dialed into your local area (which will also change a bit due to the afore mentioned conditions).

I had four custom tunes for my 14, one for each season. Two were 'on bike' at any given time, one in use, and another as a swap to.