high beam wiring question

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Laverda1200
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high beam wiring question

Post by Laverda1200 » Sun May 02, 2021 4:59 am


I have installed a set of Darla Clearwater front driving lights on my new to me 2018 H2 SX SE. I have one wire left to hook up.

I need to trigger the driving lights to go to 100 per cent when the high beam switch is turned on. The wiring diagrams all show the headlight as being fed by ground (black/yellow) and by a red/black and a red/yellow. Following the wiring diagrams the high beam HAS to be red/yellow, as that goes to both the headlight and to the "passing button". BUT, tapping into the red/yellow does not give me any voltage with the bike running and headlight on low beam, or headlight on high beam.

Then I took the left handlebar switch gear housing apart to verify the red/yellow theory. The wiring diagram shows red/yellow at the high beam switch in the handlebar housing. BUT, no such luck, what the switch actually has coming and going is a solid blue wire, and a solid pale wire which I can't tell if it is light blue or light green or a weird gray. Anyway, Nothing like a solid blue on the dimmer/high beam switch on any of the wiring diagrams.

This is where I quit for the evening, before I start punching more voltage probe holes in the wiring. What I am thinking at this point is to start the bike, on low beam probe the two wires on the dimmer/high beam switch and see what I get, if anything, then flip the headlight switch onto high beam and probe the same two wires and see what I get.

Everything else works fine, driving lights come on and stay on with the low beams when bike starts and is running. I tapped into the horn circuit, and the driving lights flash 100 per cent when the horn is honked.

Has anyone been here before me and figured out what wire to use to trigger the driving lights to go 100 per cent when high beams are turned on?

Only one more wire to go........ and the tap into the high beam circuit is only for trigger voltage to the control box that runs the driving lights, the main operating power for the driving lights is fused directly from the battery on its own harness.

Paul LeClair
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Champ87
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Re: high beam wiring question

Post by Champ87 » Sun May 02, 2021 2:47 pm


Laverda1200 wrote:
Sun May 02, 2021 4:59 am
The wiring diagrams all show the headlight as being fed by ground (black/yellow) and by a red/black and a red/yellow. Following the wiring diagrams the high beam HAS to be red/yellow, as that goes to both the headlight and to the "passing button".
No, don't use the connections from the handlebar switch. They switch to ground to trigger a connection in the meter unit. That's why you're not seeing any voltage.

If you're a curious sort, you can verify that by checking continuity to ground. When you switch to high beam the Red/Black from the switch should connect to ground. The Red/Yellow should also connect to ground when you pull the passing passing switch.

The wire to use is the Red/Black from the meter unit to the headlight. Be careful because there's also a Red/Black going into the meter unit from the Handlebar Switch (to trigger high beam) so make sure you get the right one. the headlight lead connector is just inside the nose fairing on the left side. You should be able to access it without removing the fairing - just remove the black trim panels.
Laverda1200 wrote:
Sun May 02, 2021 4:59 am
The wiring diagram shows red/yellow at the high beam switch in the handlebar housing.
The wiring diagram only shows wiring up to the switch connector. That connector could be inside the nose fairing. Wire colors from the connector, up to and inside the switch aren't shown on the original wiring diagram.

Headlight lead connector is inside the left side fairing.
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Laverda1200
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Re: high beam wiring question

Post by Laverda1200 » Sun May 02, 2021 6:13 pm


thanks so much, Champ87! Really appreciate your time. I happily and competently rebuild vintage motors and complete vintage bikes, but modern electrical is outside my experience, although I am learning. The ECU is back from VCycleNut and the bike is running again. Now I am reading about setting power modes, riding modes, traction control modes, etc and other such modern magic. I also need to make sure the quickshifter function is turned on, looking forward to that experience.

I still have not as yet actually ridden the bike. Now have been through the bike end to end since I brought it home on my trailer, new Michelin Road 5's, new EBC HH brake pads, new drive chain, disassembled the rear axle/hub and greased the very dry rear axle bearing, new 5.1 brake/clutch fluid, reset all suspensions settings back to stock for a baseline, dealt with various stripped fasteners and replaced with new, new footpeg frame mount to replace the broken one, removed the Pair valve and added block off plates, changed the spark plugs for new, changed oil and filter to Amsoil, changed coolant to Engine Ice, and gave the bike a really thorough deep clean and corrosion coating, and a detail, added Kawasaki saddle bag liners, Murph's Bar Risers, Manic Salamander bar ends, and a National Cycle polycarbonate touring screen, the Admore rear light bar and the Clearwater Darla driving lights, a GIVI tank ring for a tank bag, T-Rex front axle sliders, frame sliders, a nd rear axle sliders, PUIG downforce winglets, all while waiting on the replacement body parts. If the Kawasaki body parts don't arrive soon I am going to have so much more extra crap bolted to the bike I am going to have to adjust the suspension to compensate for all the extra weight...

I still have various broken body panels off as I am still waiting on Kawasaki Canada for the new body panels to replace the panels damaged by the tip over that occurred before I bought the bike. I had already found the headlight connector under the left front of the top fairing and unsuccessfully tapped into the red/yellow for high beam. Now I will try the red/black for a high beam trigger for the Darla driving lights as you indicate in your post. Will report back.

Paul LeClair
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Champ87
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Re: high beam wiring question

Post by Champ87 » Sun May 02, 2021 6:48 pm


Laverda1200 wrote:
Sun May 02, 2021 6:13 pm
I had already found the headlight connector under the left front of the top fairing and unsuccessfully tapped into the red/yellow for high beam. Now I will try the red/black for a high beam trigger for the Darla driving lights as you indicate in your post. Will report back.
The Red/Yellow should give 12V as long as the headlight is on. The Red/Black should give voltage for high beam or passing. Black/Yellow is ground.
Laverda1200 wrote:
Sun May 02, 2021 6:13 pm
I happily and competently rebuild vintage motors and complete vintage bikes....
I too enjoy rebuilding older bikes. I have a '73 Yamaha RD350 that I rebuilt a few years back. I have a particular affection for those as I had one when I was 18 and later raced the liquid cooled 350s.

20131006_8313_1000x666_sepia_01.jpg

I also have a '74 Kawasaki H1E 500 triple that is currently stripped down to every last nut and bolt. Haven't worked on it for a while but with retirement imminent I hope to pick up on that again. Still acquiring parts as they become available but I may have to use a few aftermarket parts for items that are no longer available.

I've never owned or even ridden a Laverda but the 750 SFC always grabbed my interest whenever I read about them.
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Laverda1200
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Re: high beam wiring question

Post by Laverda1200 » Wed May 05, 2021 4:05 am


Hi Champ87 and all

Champ87 - cool RD 350!

I owned and raced an 8000 series drum brake 1971 Laverda SFC 750 for a very long time. One of a handful in North America. The later disc brake SFC bikes were more "common", there were a couple of hundred of those. I still have three Laverda triples, a 1979 1200 Mirage, a 1982 1200 Mirage TS Series 2, and a 1984 RGS Executive, all totally rebuilt.

The 2018 Kawasaki H2 seems like a space shuttle in comparison to the old Laverda's. Even so, I struggle with the electrickery on the old Laverda's, never mind trying to muddle my way through the modern wiring harness on the H2 SX SE. However, as I am still waiting on replacement body panels for the H2 SX SE from Kawasaki, I decided to try and solve my high beam wiring conundrum to hook up the Clearwater Darla driving lights to come on high when the high beam on the bike is turned on.

The headlight connector that is easily accessible at the front left side of the fairing, without taking the upper nose fairing off, does have 12 volt power on low beam, but no 12 volt power on high beam. So, I took the upper nose fairing off to get at the headlight wiring directly, only to find three electrical plugs into a plug rack, and a fourth plug separate . My problem now is that with everything apart and unplugged as required to get the nose fairing off, now I can't test for high beam voltage......... A couple of photos for reference. I did find a single red/black wire on one of the plugs and am guessing that is likely what I need to tap into for a voltage trigger for the high beam function of the added driving lights? Still not sure if I need to tap into red/black or red/yellow for actual high beam, still looks to me from struggling with the Kawasaki wiring diagram it has to be red/yellow.

Paul LeClair
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HEADLIGHT 3.jpg
HEADLIGHT 2.jpg
HEADLIGHT 1.jpg
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Champ87
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Re: high beam wiring question

Post by Champ87 » Thu May 06, 2021 2:53 am


Laverda1200 wrote:
Wed May 05, 2021 4:05 am
A couple of photos for reference. I did find a single red/black wire on one of the plugs and am guessing that is likely what I need to tap into for a voltage trigger for the high beam function of the added driving lights?
Yes, that's the one, that connector in your third photo. When you switch to high beam you'll see voltage between the Red/Black wire and ground (the Black/Yellow wire). Here's the surprise though: it's not 12V. I checked mine - it's 5V. That's a trigger and the switching is actually happening inside the headlight unit to feed both high beam and low beam from the same 12V Red/Yellow.
Laverda1200 wrote:
Wed May 05, 2021 4:05 am
Still not sure if I need to tap into red/black or red/yellow for actual high beam, still looks to me from struggling with the Kawasaki wiring diagram it has to be red/yellow.
No, if you use the Red/Yellow, your driving lights will be on all the time - once you've started the bike.
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It's amazing how fast you can go when you take your time.

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