Oil change muscle

Bike aesthetic/mechanical/electrical modifications and general wrenching advice.
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Prof J
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Oil change muscle

Post by Prof J » Wed Aug 14, 2019 5:29 am


Plan on doing my 600 mile oil change soon and wondering, for the folks who have done one, is the original oil filter tightened to the point that a tool is needed. I saw in the service manual that Kawa recommends tool tightening.

I don't want to get setup and ready, fairing off, to discover I needed their proprietary tool.

Thank you.
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cOoTeR
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Re: Oil change muscle

Post by cOoTeR » Wed Aug 14, 2019 11:58 am


A small strap style filter wrench works fine.
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Stock with airfilter 164whp 84ft.lbs
De-restricted + tuned 213whp 97ft.lbs
Full vandemon exhaust with tune 221whp 99ft.lbs
On Race Fuel 233whp 103ft.lbs

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kman0066
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Re: Oil change muscle

Post by kman0066 » Wed Aug 14, 2019 12:28 pm


Yeah, I used a strap wrench on mine as well. Don't need the proprietary tool, but most likely you'll want something to assist getting it off. It's a normal oil filter, so any type of tool you can reach in there with will work. Over the years, I've used strap wrenches, channel-locks, a screw driver poked into it, socket style, whatever you have that works.
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Re: Oil change muscle

Post by Burmashave » Wed Aug 14, 2019 2:30 pm


You can pick up a wrench that fits at an auto parts store. You'll need one that's 80mm - 15 flutes.

I picked mine up at an Advance Auto Parts (PN AC1088).

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/aut ... 10095941-P
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Prof J
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Re: Oil change muscle

Post by Prof J » Wed Aug 14, 2019 3:40 pm


Gentlemen,

Thanks for the info. Oil change happening any minute!
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Snakes709
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Re: Oil change muscle

Post by Snakes709 » Wed Aug 14, 2019 4:31 pm


Mine was on super tight. I have the kawasaki filter cap wrench and it kept spinning on the filter and stripping the flutes on the end. Eventually removed the fairings and did the ol screw driver through the filter trick. Even that wasnt working at first, started ripping the material of the filter.
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Re: Oil change muscle

Post by Raddy47 » Wed Aug 14, 2019 7:51 pm


Mine was also pretty tight took 3 solid slow turns with all my strength to finally be able to use my hand. I snugged it down as many as I it took to get loose. No leaks. I went with Kawasaki stock filter. I used to be a K&N only guy but the Kawasaki filter is pretty high quality. I use Castrol 10w40T have gone through about 1,700 miles with quite a few hard runs and the oil still isn’t black. Very surprised. This was not the case on my previous bike.
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Prof J
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Re: Oil change muscle

Post by Prof J » Thu Aug 15, 2019 5:21 am


Snakes709 wrote:
Wed Aug 14, 2019 4:31 pm
Mine was on super tight. I have the kawasaki filter cap wrench and it kept spinning on the filter and stripping the flutes on the end. Eventually removed the fairings and did the ol screw driver through the filter trick. Even that wasnt working at first, started ripping the material of the filter.
That's miserable. Had it turned off easier, would you have needed to remove any fairing?
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Prof J
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Re: Oil change muscle

Post by Prof J » Thu Aug 15, 2019 5:25 am


Raddy47 wrote:
Wed Aug 14, 2019 7:51 pm
Mine was also pretty tight took 3 solid slow turns with all my strength to finally be able to use my hand. I snugged it down as many as I it took to get loose. No leaks. I went with Kawasaki stock filter. I used to be a K&N only guy but the Kawasaki filter is pretty high quality. I use Castrol 10w40T have gone through about 1,700 miles with quite a few hard runs and the oil still isn’t black. Very surprised. This was not the case on my previous bike.
Well, I could be in trouble. I might need to ask for my Sweeties muscles.

She's a nurse and has to lift weight and take off pill caps. No joking, she's buff.
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Snakes709
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Re: Oil change muscle

Post by Snakes709 » Thu Aug 15, 2019 1:37 pm


Prof J wrote:
Thu Aug 15, 2019 5:21 am
Snakes709 wrote:
Wed Aug 14, 2019 4:31 pm
Mine was on super tight. I have the kawasaki filter cap wrench and it kept spinning on the filter and stripping the flutes on the end. Eventually removed the fairings and did the ol screw driver through the filter trick. Even that wasnt working at first, started ripping the material of the filter.
That's miserable. Had it turned off easier, would you have needed to remove any fairing?
Nope. All i need to do is separate the fairings at the bottom but i dont need to remove the fairing.
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